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Travel

Jerusalem seen from the air. Photo © and courtesy Cookie West

Keeping in mind Israel is about the size of New Jersey, you might consider a scouting foray to the Negev by helicopter. Take off from the heliport north of Tel Aviv, in Herzliya—imagine climbing into a bright yellow copter with sound-muffling earphones—the loud throbbing of the engine filling the air as you hunker down in your bucket seat.

You’ll see the green hills around Jerusalem, with its pink-hued stone walls surrounding the Old City, the Dome of the Rock glinting in the sun.

The helicopter rises into the sky as you peer downward to see the world receding from view, the towns speeding by underneath you as you head south. There is Tel Aviv off on the right—its skyscrapers reminding you a little of the spires of New York City. In a short while you’ll see the green hills around Jerusalem, with its pink-hued stone walls surrounding the Old City, the Dome of the Rock glinting in the sun.

The country lays itself out for you; the perspective from the helicopter revealing gorgeous larger patterns of cityscape, agricultural dots and stripes, and moonlike arid lands. The terrain turns yellow as you careen over the Judean Desert. There in the distance, to the right, is Be’er Sheva. Once a sleepy little camel junction, it is now a metropolis, with buildings climbing high out of the winding old streets. To your left—that is, to the East—the salt-dense Dead Sea lolled mysteriously. In less than an hour, your pilot lands in a whirlwind of sand churned up by the gusts of the helicopter’s propellers. Here you are at Tel Arad, in the northeastern Negev, right in front of the Yatir Winery

Herzliya to Tel Arad, Negev—Seen from the Air

Rota Winery, Negev Desert. Photo by Katherine Martinelli courtesy Creative Commons.

Carmey Avdat—which grows Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes—is part of the “Negev Wine Route”; other wineries on that itinerary are the Ramat Negev Winery, Rota, Ashba, Rujum, Derech Eretz, and Sde Boker. What a surprise that the desert can be so fruitful, so generous—and that the wine from this region can be so fabulous!

Eyal Izrael of Carmey Avdat farm and winery explains how he and Hannah have successfully adapted themselves to this land: “Our exploration of the desert served as the foundation for our vision and dream,” he told me. “We learned to listen to the voices of the desert and to respect it—but not to attempt to tame it.” 

Ashba Winery >

Carmey Avdat >

Derech Eretz Winery >

Ramat Negev Winery >

Rota Winery >

Rujum Desert Winery >

Sde Boker Winery >

Yatir Winery >

Beautiful Vintages Grown in the Desert

Caesarea en route from Tel Aviv to Zichron Ya'acov. Photo courtesy Israel Tourism and Creative Commons.

The drive north on the road from Tel Aviv to Zichron Ya’acov has not changed in decades: the Mediterranean sun still shines down as you pass rows of flowering banana trees swaying seductively in the breeze, and fish farms sparkle with dancing denise—sea bream—luring passersby to fish for their supper. The vivid blue sea spreads out lazily alongside you. Just past the Roman bastion of Caesarea you turn off the main road to climb the Carmel Mountains toward Zichron Ya’acov. (Mountains? It is really just one high hill, down which a white hotel cascades toward the water.) Once the city of Zichron was still basically sand dunes. Today, its main pedestrian street is busy with strolling tourists and locals, visiting sweet cafés and galleries.

Fish farms sparkle with dancing denise—sea bream—luring passersby to fish for their supper.

Israel is a place where the old is in a state of constant interface with the new. Zichron Ya’acov is the home of the First Aliyah Museum, which outlines the story of the first wave of immigrants to what was then known as Palestine. Although Zichron Ya’acov retains echoes of its 1880s spirit—the simple, sturdy buildings, the towns, people purposeful in their activities—things are transforming in important ways. 

First Aliyah Museum >

The Stunning Drive from Tel Aviv to Zichron Ya’acov

Tulip Winery in Kfar Tikva. Photo courtesy Tulip Winery.

 

It may seem surprising that a country as small as Israel can boast such a diversity of terrains for its vineyards. Indeed, Israel’s wine industry is so varied and flourishing that visitors can now follow a wine route that stretches the length of the country: from the green Galilee and Golan Heights in the North, through Mount Carmel, Sharon and the coastal plains, and the Judean Hills, down to the hot, dry Negev Desert in the South.

Driven by new technologies, new ideas, and new consumer appreciation for fine wines, Israel is undergoing what many are calling a wine revolution.

Each region has its superstars and its newcomers, its traditionalists and experimenters. While the industry is decidedly dominated by men, there have been some talented women in the field: Orna Chillag (Chillag) and Na’ama Sorkin (Dalton) are two notable examples. The Tulip Winery in Kfar Tikva has a unique business model: many of its employees are adults with disabilities and special needs.

Driven by new technologies, new ideas, and new consumer appreciation for fine wines, Israel is undergoing what many are calling a wine revolution.

Selected Stops on Israel’s Wine Route:

 

Ashba Winery >

Ramat HaNegev

Carmel Winery >

Zichron Ya’acov

Carmey Avdat >

north of Mitzpe Ramon

Chillag Winery >

Yahud

Clos de Gat Winery >

Ayalon Valley

Dalton Winery >

Ramat Dalton Industrial Park

Derech Eretz Winery >

Mitzpe Ramon

Domaine du Castel >

Ramat Raziel

Golan Heights Winery >

Golan Heights

Ramat Negev Winery >

Halutza

Recanati Winery >

Emek Hefer Industrial Park

Rota Winery >

Kibbutz Revivim, Sde Boker

Rujum Desert Winery >

Mitzpe Ramon

Sde Boker Winery >

Kibbutz Sde Boker

Tulip Winery >

Kiryat Tivon

Yatir Winery >

Tel Arad


Israel’s Wine Revolution

Negev, Makhtesh Ramon, Sunset, 2012.  Photo by Neil Folberg

Makhtesh Ramon is a fantastically beautiful geological site close to Sde Boker. Driving down into the basin of the makhtesh—a deep crater—is a hair-raising but exhilarating trip on a rocky path that makes the rollercoasters at Coney Island seem tame. The makhtesh is twenty-five miles long and six miles wide—there is so much to explore.

The walls of the Makhtesh are striped with limestone and basalt, red as roses, tall as buildings. Tame Nubian ibexes and gazelles wander fearlessly.

The walls of the makhtesh are striped with limestone and basalt, red as roses, tall as buildings. Tame Nubian ibexes and gazelles wander fearlessly. Acacia, boxthorn, and broom grow in abundance, and sturdy caper bushes, with their warm-green leaves as delicate as tiny coins, sneak out of crevices, some of them growing sideways.

It is a landscape unlike any other on Earth.

Ramon Crater >

Makhtesh Ramon: An Awesome Geological Form